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Drafting Lessons: M12 as a whole



 
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mortisimo



Joined: 26 Jun 2010
Posts: 9

PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 1:21 pm    Post subject: Drafting Lessons: M12 as a whole Reply with quote

Alright, let me first start by throwing out my disclaimer. I am awesome and the best drafter in the world - don't question me...either that or accept the fact that there are 1000s of players better than me with 1000s of other opinions Smile

My goal here is to help some of the newer drafters ont he site, or to hone the skills of experienced drafters that may be struggling with M12.

Let me start by saying that I struggled with M12 when it first came out, I am typically a fairly solid drafter in most formats and do very well IRL. When M12 first came out (and before the bots ran the tourneys) I lost about 12 of 15 matches watching my ML Rating plummet about 60 points. Now, I can say that I have lost less than 5 matches in my last 20 drafts in this format - so I am speaking with confidence in this article (as much confidence as a magic nerd can muster). With the bots it doesn't seem you can get very many leag matches though - so don't judge me based on that Smile

Now that we have settled the question of my awesomeness, we will get on with what you came to read. As of now, I see mostly aggro decks in M12 and seeing way less control decks. The Rare bombs don't seem to matter as much in this format, while they certainly can help they don't dictate the matchup. Overrun was a first pick on almost every draft format I have seen it, in this format I have let it slide many a times, just out racing any opp. that may be playing green. (Yes, I have been smashed in the face by overrun and Yes, it is still a great card). My point to this is - don't get caught up on the bombs in the set - you can make a very solid deck in ANY color as there are great 1, 2 and 3 drops for each color. This first article is going to focus on coming into the draft with 3 things: An open mind (do not set yourself on archetype before the draft), a set strategy, patience to see it through.

Pack 1 Pick 1
Alright, so I hear tons of people saying they took card A only to have the color cut. Or they took card B over A cause they didn't want to color commit. As far as I am concerned, unless you open straight poo - you are color committed pick 1. I always leave my second color as open as possible - but pick 1 I usually dictate at least 1 color of my deck. This is all part of the strategy in your first pick. Let's analyze some options here. If there is a bomb - you take it. Plain and simple, no questions asked, snag it up. Now, if there is nothing but poo then you take the best playable card (we don't need to talk about this scenario as it doesn't happen often, and there is not much to do when it does happen). So our last option is, there are a FEW solid picks and you are unsure which one to take. This is the typicaly scenario I find myself in and I am sure many of you find the same. As I said before, we should KNOW one of our colors after this pick so make this one caount. You never want to throw away p1p1.

Things to consider when there are multiple options
How Deep is the pack? One thing I do is look and count the next 7 picks in the pack - what will table depending on your pick. If there is a Volcanic Dragon, Doomblade, aEather Adept which do you take? Most people take doomblade as it is strongest on its own, some take the adept because they love the blue aggro archtype. I look at the pack and see if anything will table in the pack. Is there a Child of Night or Warpath Ghoul that might table? Is there a Phantasmal Bear that will table? What about a Goblin Arsonist or Piker? I try to give myself the best option of getting a playable card at pick 9. If not - then I pick the best available and don't look back.

How much of a color commitment do you have to make? If you have a card like Overrun you have to be HEAVY green to make it effective and relevant, what if green gets cut? If I have the choice between an Overrun or Incinerate pick 1, most times I will take the Incinerate just because there is no huge committment to it and it will fit in any deck with red. The Overrun is more capable of winning a game, but at this time I am not 100% sure how relevant it will be. Now, that being said - I will not take a benalish veteran or skywinder drake over the overrun. It is a judgement call here and I try to leave myself outs if possible but I won't hesitate in commiting heavy to a color if I think the cards value is that much higher than the others in the pack.

P1 P2 and Beyond:
Color commitment, color commitment and uhmmm...oh yeah, color commitment. So when I first started drafting M12 I treated it like many other formats and tried to leave myself very open pack 1 - just taking the BEST playable card each pick and then trying to narrow down my colors pack 2. This ahd devastating results, and I couldn't figure out why I never had enough quality playables at the end - or why I was splashing for a Warpath Ghoul and Child of Night Sad. The single best peice of advice I can give for M12 is to pick your colors early - or at least one of them (will talk about 2nd color below). I have let many pack 2, 3rd pick doomblades slide by me for a skywinder drake or a stormfront peagasaus. In pack one, you have the luxry of taking the solid playable that is off-color, but once you have yoru two colors picked it is best to take a decent playable in color than to take a great card off color (you can splash a doomblade, fireball, etc with relative ease - I just typically stay away from that unless it IS a fireball)

I have had more success letting a Jade Mage slide by in favor of a 2/4 cutthroat to stay in color. Card quality here isn't even close, but every card that you take out of color is 1 less playable you may end up with in your deck. The format is so aggresive that 2 dead cards will cost you a game.

2nd color - How do you know when to pull the trigger? I have known my second color as early as P1P2 - Opened a PrimeTitan pack 1 pick 1 and followed up with MindControl. At that point I decided I was Green/Blue even if the colors closed off. I thought it a mistake at first as I didn't get another playable blue card ALL of pack 1 and only 4-5 more decent green cards. I stuck with the plan though, and between packs 2-3 I got 2 adepts, looter, 2 basalisks, 2 jade mage, 1 stingerfling and a couple blue flyers (fleetwing/drake). I ended up winning first two matches with ease and dropping before the third (I am going to assume I would have won, because I am always better in my mind).
That doesn't always happen, sometimes you can be well into pack 2 before deciding. You are solid green for main color say, but you have an Incinerate, shock and blood ogre in red and a pacifism and asasualt griffin in white. Here you are pick 4 pack 2 and still unsure what color you should be in. Well hopefully you are paying attention to what's coming around the board. Usuually you can tell which colors are being cut hard unless the packs are just poo. If you know red was not looking good and you choose those cards early to get them - then jump off and snag up the white. If this pick comes up with a great red card, then don't feel bad about dropping the white like it was last nights girlfriend (who are we kidding, we play magic - we don't have girlfriends). If you see a color that is wide open never be afraid to jump on it - you don't want to force a color and see quality cards come at pick 8 and 9 that you have to let slide by because you were afraid to jump. Just DON'T JUMP TOO LATE. Too late is when you have 5+ playables in two different colors and it you are estimating you might get 5 more playables of the new color - no reason to jump then, the new color has to not only catch up your old color - but pass it in the maount of playables. Don't count on getting more than a couple playables after pick 7 in each pack.

Curving Out
Another aspect of the draft I want to talk about is your curve. In M11 you could easily draft a handful of 3 drops, a couple 4 drops and then have bomb 5/6 drops and still dominate a game. The simple fact is, M12 has way too many quality 1 and 2 drops to make this as viable as it was before, unless you are playing a control deck (will talk about that in a future article). The tempo of this set and the power of the 2 drop is staggering in this set, back that up with some spot removal and you will never see that 5 or 6 drop become relevant in the game. When I am drafting in NetDraft I keep my picks sorted by CC, not by color and not by pick. When I am done I am looking to have only 4-5 cards that are 5 CC or higher in most decks, and I am looking to have things to do turns 3, 4 and 5. This means I need to have 3-4 drops in these ranges - if not, I need tricks or actions as I don't want to waste a turn. I consider divination a '3 drop'. While it doesn't put a creature on the board, it gives more more cards, thus increases my quality. I try to make sure I have a solid 4-5 two drops - and in any deck I am going for bloodthirst in I try to have 3 one drops, and 4-5 two drops at a minimum. Pay attention to your curve, you don't want to get behind, just taking an extra 4 damage in a game can sometimes put you too far behind the race to ever let your big blasty dragon even matter in the game.


Alright folks, that wraps up this first edition of Drafting Lessons. I have recorded a couple drafts (still trying to learn to edit before I post them), and have saved some replays in net draft. I plan on posting some of those to explain why I pick certain cards. Hopefully, you get some value out of this and it will help you out. For all the rest of you, feel free to flame away Smile.

If anyone has any specific draft questions in regards to M12 I will be more than happy to address them and answer them to the best of my ability.

****This has not been spell checked, all spelling errors are the responsibility of Vimes as I paid good money to get that portion of my writeups automated**** (check is in the mail)
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AppleofEris



Joined: 20 Dec 2006
Posts: 553

PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's how to pick your colors in m12 draft.

1st pack - 1st pick: are there 2 cards of the same color that are first picks in this pack? Yes? Take neither of them. The dude next to you is gonna take one and then in pack 2, you are screwed. Like the OP said, take the good card first pick then let the mediocre card table to you, because in this set, mediocre is what wins you games.

Speaking of colors, the best way to draft is to pick mono colors. Mono red, black, and white are all really good strategies. Drafting mono color gives you more first pick spells, such as Fiery Hellhound, that multicolor decks are going to pass up. Also, with mono colors, you can play 16 lands a lot easier (depending on your mana curve).

Make sure to balance your removal and threats. You don't want all removal in this format, just enough to remove what is stopping you from winning the game.

These are just a few tips to liven up your draftin experience!
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MannyFresh



Joined: 29 May 2011
Posts: 13

PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good article. I hope some people read this and learn from it. Except for a few formats, you should know your main color in pack 1 always, and usually 2nd/3rd colors as well. (the Phyrexian mana screwed all this up).

Like you said, too many times I've seen doom blade pick 4-5 in pack 2.....that should never happen.

Also we can't forget, this is Magic and LUCK is a big part of it. Sometimes you just get screwed with table order and the guy next you takes all the cards you want.
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SAPenguin



Joined: 04 Dec 2010
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lol, this is bad advice upon bad advice being doled out.

First: you are never colour committed pack 1 pick 1. I've 3-0d many drafts with decks that did not contain my first pick, and I'm sure many people have lost in the first round because they tried to stay in the colour of their first pick when it was clearly being cut. If the person to your right is cutting a colour, stay out of it, no matter what bomb you opened. Mind control is awesome, but a deck with mind control and a bunch of shitty cards with an awkward curve is not a good deck.

Second: if you're getting passed good green and bad blue after having taken a blue card, that means that green is open and blue is not; take the green cards.

Third: if you're talking about the tempo of the format, why would you rank divination a 3 drop? It does absolutely nothing on board, putting you very far behind to fast bloodthirst decks. If its turn 3, you should still have plenty of cards in hand, and thus will presumably have a play to make on turn 4 already, as well as a play on turn 3. Save card draw spells that don't affect board for when you need to dig into something to actually play. Early on, you need to create board presence.

Fourth: if there are two really good cards of the same colour in the first pack, take the better one. If the person to your left takes the other one, who cares? You are going to be cutting whatever colour, lets say its red, for the rest of that pack, and if they see a 2nd pick incinerate with a rare missing, followed by no good red for the rest of the pack, then they are probably going to relegate it to a splash. Even if they don't, they are only cutting you for one pack, and you can just use that pack to flesh out your second colour. This leads me to....

Fifth: mono coloured decks are viable, but they cannot be forced. If white or black are open enough that you can draft a mono deck, thats great, but oftentimes that's not going to happen. Taking really bad cards in the hopes that you can avoid playing two colours does more harm than good.

Sixth: Stop blaming luck for your failings. "Table order" is not going to screw you up if you know how to read signals. If the guy next to you is taking all the cards you want, then you should stop wanting those cards and start wanting all the good cards he is passing. Luck does play a part in magic, but if you don't critically examine what you're doing every single time you lose, you won't improve as much as if you did.

Seventh: stomping ML drafts does not make you a good drafter. This place's average skill level is lower than FNM drafts, and its honestly not even close. Just having basic card analysis skills can get you very nice looking records on ML, because people here maindeck lifelink (not kidding). If you know to value removal and to try to curve out your deck, then you're probably going to do very well here. This doesn't mean that the habits you've formed with regards to signalling and colour commitment will have similar success against drafters who actually know what they are doing.
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AppleofEris



Joined: 20 Dec 2006
Posts: 553

PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SAPenguin wrote:
Lol, this is bad advice upon bad advice being doled out.

First: you are never colour committed pack 1 pick 1. I've 3-0d many drafts with decks that did not contain my first pick, and I'm sure many people have lost in the first round because they tried to stay in the colour of their first pick when it was clearly being cut. If the person to your right is cutting a colour, stay out of it, no matter what bomb you opened. Mind control is awesome, but a deck with mind control and a bunch of shitty cards with an awkward curve is not a good deck.

Second: if you're getting passed good green and bad blue after having taken a blue card, that means that green is open and blue is not; take the green cards.

Third: if you're talking about the tempo of the format, why would you rank divination a 3 drop? It does absolutely nothing on board, putting you very far behind to fast bloodthirst decks. If its turn 3, you should still have plenty of cards in hand, and thus will presumably have a play to make on turn 4 already, as well as a play on turn 3. Save card draw spells that don't affect board for when you need to dig into something to actually play. Early on, you need to create board presence.

Fourth: if there are two really good cards of the same colour in the first pack, take the better one. If the person to your left takes the other one, who cares? You are going to be cutting whatever colour, lets say its red, for the rest of that pack, and if they see a 2nd pick incinerate with a rare missing, followed by no good red for the rest of the pack, then they are probably going to relegate it to a splash. Even if they don't, they are only cutting you for one pack, and you can just use that pack to flesh out your second colour. This leads me to....

Fifth: mono coloured decks are viable, but they cannot be forced. If white or black are open enough that you can draft a mono deck, thats great, but oftentimes that's not going to happen. Taking really bad cards in the hopes that you can avoid playing two colours does more harm than good.

Sixth: Stop blaming luck for your failings. "Table order" is not going to screw you up if you know how to read signals. If the guy next to you is taking all the cards you want, then you should stop wanting those cards and start wanting all the good cards he is passing. Luck does play a part in magic, but if you don't critically examine what you're doing every single time you lose, you won't improve as much as if you did.

Seventh: stomping ML drafts does not make you a good drafter. This place's average skill level is lower than FNM drafts, and its honestly not even close. Just having basic card analysis skills can get you very nice looking records on ML, because people here maindeck lifelink (not kidding). If you know to value removal and to try to curve out your deck, then you're probably going to do very well here. This doesn't mean that the habits you've formed with regards to signalling and colour commitment will have similar success against drafters who actually know what they are doing.


You can totally force mono colors.
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P_P4E



Joined: 31 Aug 2004
Posts: 579

PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with some things some people said and disagree with others. Here is what I've experienced in about 50 drafts on mtgo/irl

-Build with Curve in Mind
No matter what "Kind" of deck you want to draft, you have to acknowledge that bloodthirst is the mechanic of the set and that people are overreacting to it right now (it might calm down in a month or so). The 4th 5 drop is not as good as the 3rd 3 drop, almost no matter what it is. As Ari Lax mentioned in his article, 2 drops are king right now. I skew to trying to get at least 8 1 and 2 drops in most of my decks. Beyond that, it generally doesn't matter what other stuff you have just as long as you can outlast the fast decks and then overpower them late...Or of course be the fast deck yourself.

I take phantasmal bear over chasm drake MOST of the time.

-Avoid "double doubles", but beyond that you can pay whatever 2 color combo you want...
Going from turn 2 garruk companion to turn 3 devouring swarm is obviously not possible...so don't build your deck in this way. Obviously having 1 and 1 is doable, but having 3 companions is going to basically force you to play nothing double black till about the 5 spot on the curve.

I think people generally overrate specific color combinations. Black/white is said to be bad, but powerful cards are powerful. I don't mind playing this after pick 1 O-ring, pick 2 doom blade etc... I just avoid cards like devouring swarm, arbalest elite, and armored warhorse. I don't mind 1 distress postboard or whatever.

-7 mana bomb rares aren't really what you want.
Pentavus is a good card in a vacuum, but it isn't better than any burn spell or hard removal for sure, and I wouldn't take it over most good red creatures or lawkeeper, etc. Being open for just 1 more pick isn't worth having a clunky 7 drop in your hand that doesn't get you value right away. The fact or fiction sphinx sometimes goes to 3rd pick, and the black demon ive passed once as well to take an O-ring. 7 is just 1 too many for windmill slam bombs. This is not to say these cards aren't going to make your deck, because they are...but I will NEVER commit to a color after taking a double color 7 mana bomb as I would in previous formats. I've seen Garruk's Hoard go 5th or 6th before, and its arguably a windmill slam in other formats as you can just cast it and play no more spells from your hand.

-Have a broad sideboard if possible
There are many types of decks possible, but mostly you're going to run into dedicated control or dedicated aggro. You want to be bringing in cards against each. Examples are Mind Rot and Negate against control and Pride Guardian and Divine Favor against aggro. Don't commit to cards unless you know they are going to be useful. Pride Guardian is terrible if they're mono blood ogre/fireslinger/tormented soul's.

I think cards like Celestial Purge and Deathmark are around 4-5th picks. Both are very flexible, and both are cheap.

-You can't afford to maindeck cards like naturalize or Negate IMO. If you have useless cards, you mulliganed...which is terrible in this format.

-DON'T BREW!
You can't afford to try cards out (unless you are...ya know... testing for the PT and can afford to lose). You gots no time. Don't mill people. Don't build the auramancer deck. Don't build the 2 for 1 UB control deck. Just protect yourself.

-Have "Re-Trumps"
Red's creatures beat everything but green's on curve. You can't just curve from warhorse to veteran to griffin and expect to be in the race OR be able to block profitably. Blood ogre and Minotaur are absolutely insane and just one hit from the 5/5 puts you in fireslinger range easily. You can't rely on a triple block on him since people obviously play burn but also sometimes pants them up with auras or play slaughter cry or stave off, etc. You need frost breaths, ice cages, a chain of gravediggers, or a big green guy. I think you can play up to 4 frost breaths no problem, but ive heard people say you dont want "too many". The card is basically Sleep at instant speed for 1 less blue mana. About ice cage, people say its bad in this format because of the auras, but I think you need it BECAUSE of the auras. You should be able to stabilize if you can hold the 5/5 and first striker down for a few turns, and with people not wanting to play too many auras its likely they won't always have one. Don't worry about the card disadvantage, as its really only about living.

This is basic stuff for sure, and I DO think the format will slow down a little bit once the frenzy stops and cards like divination and mind rot along with harbor serpent will be good against more than just a couple people at the table, but for now you just assume everyone is trying to curve out on you...and do the same back to them.
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SAPenguin



Joined: 04 Dec 2010
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AppleofEris wrote:
SAPenguin wrote:
Lol, this is bad advice upon bad advice being doled out.

First: you are never colour committed pack 1 pick 1. I've 3-0d many drafts with decks that did not contain my first pick, and I'm sure many people have lost in the first round because they tried to stay in the colour of their first pick when it was clearly being cut. If the person to your right is cutting a colour, stay out of it, no matter what bomb you opened. Mind control is awesome, but a deck with mind control and a bunch of shitty cards with an awkward curve is not a good deck.

Second: if you're getting passed good green and bad blue after having taken a blue card, that means that green is open and blue is not; take the green cards.

Third: if you're talking about the tempo of the format, why would you rank divination a 3 drop? It does absolutely nothing on board, putting you very far behind to fast bloodthirst decks. If its turn 3, you should still have plenty of cards in hand, and thus will presumably have a play to make on turn 4 already, as well as a play on turn 3. Save card draw spells that don't affect board for when you need to dig into something to actually play. Early on, you need to create board presence.

Fourth: if there are two really good cards of the same colour in the first pack, take the better one. If the person to your left takes the other one, who cares? You are going to be cutting whatever colour, lets say its red, for the rest of that pack, and if they see a 2nd pick incinerate with a rare missing, followed by no good red for the rest of the pack, then they are probably going to relegate it to a splash. Even if they don't, they are only cutting you for one pack, and you can just use that pack to flesh out your second colour. This leads me to....

Fifth: mono coloured decks are viable, but they cannot be forced. If white or black are open enough that you can draft a mono deck, thats great, but oftentimes that's not going to happen. Taking really bad cards in the hopes that you can avoid playing two colours does more harm than good.

Sixth: Stop blaming luck for your failings. "Table order" is not going to screw you up if you know how to read signals. If the guy next to you is taking all the cards you want, then you should stop wanting those cards and start wanting all the good cards he is passing. Luck does play a part in magic, but if you don't critically examine what you're doing every single time you lose, you won't improve as much as if you did.

Seventh: stomping ML drafts does not make you a good drafter. This place's average skill level is lower than FNM drafts, and its honestly not even close. Just having basic card analysis skills can get you very nice looking records on ML, because people here maindeck lifelink (not kidding). If you know to value removal and to try to curve out your deck, then you're probably going to do very well here. This doesn't mean that the habits you've formed with regards to signalling and colour commitment will have similar success against drafters who actually know what they are doing.


You can totally force mono colors.


No, you can't. If the person to your right is in black, trying to be mono-black will lead to your having a terrible deck.
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AppleofEris



Joined: 20 Dec 2006
Posts: 553

PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SAPenguin wrote:
AppleofEris wrote:
SAPenguin wrote:
Lol, this is bad advice upon bad advice being doled out.

First: you are never colour committed pack 1 pick 1. I've 3-0d many drafts with decks that did not contain my first pick, and I'm sure many people have lost in the first round because they tried to stay in the colour of their first pick when it was clearly being cut. If the person to your right is cutting a colour, stay out of it, no matter what bomb you opened. Mind control is awesome, but a deck with mind control and a bunch of shitty cards with an awkward curve is not a good deck.

Second: if you're getting passed good green and bad blue after having taken a blue card, that means that green is open and blue is not; take the green cards.

Third: if you're talking about the tempo of the format, why would you rank divination a 3 drop? It does absolutely nothing on board, putting you very far behind to fast bloodthirst decks. If its turn 3, you should still have plenty of cards in hand, and thus will presumably have a play to make on turn 4 already, as well as a play on turn 3. Save card draw spells that don't affect board for when you need to dig into something to actually play. Early on, you need to create board presence.

Fourth: if there are two really good cards of the same colour in the first pack, take the better one. If the person to your left takes the other one, who cares? You are going to be cutting whatever colour, lets say its red, for the rest of that pack, and if they see a 2nd pick incinerate with a rare missing, followed by no good red for the rest of the pack, then they are probably going to relegate it to a splash. Even if they don't, they are only cutting you for one pack, and you can just use that pack to flesh out your second colour. This leads me to....

Fifth: mono coloured decks are viable, but they cannot be forced. If white or black are open enough that you can draft a mono deck, thats great, but oftentimes that's not going to happen. Taking really bad cards in the hopes that you can avoid playing two colours does more harm than good.

Sixth: Stop blaming luck for your failings. "Table order" is not going to screw you up if you know how to read signals. If the guy next to you is taking all the cards you want, then you should stop wanting those cards and start wanting all the good cards he is passing. Luck does play a part in magic, but if you don't critically examine what you're doing every single time you lose, you won't improve as much as if you did.

Seventh: stomping ML drafts does not make you a good drafter. This place's average skill level is lower than FNM drafts, and its honestly not even close. Just having basic card analysis skills can get you very nice looking records on ML, because people here maindeck lifelink (not kidding). If you know to value removal and to try to curve out your deck, then you're probably going to do very well here. This doesn't mean that the habits you've formed with regards to signalling and colour commitment will have similar success against drafters who actually know what they are doing.


You can totally force mono colors.


No, you can't. If the person to your right is in black, trying to be mono-black will lead to your having a terrible deck.


By pick 4, you should be aware of that and you can switch to another mono color, giving you ample time to assemble a deck.
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SAPenguin



Joined: 04 Dec 2010
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

...Except that only black is deep enough that you can reliably get a playable every pack. If you want to play a bunch of goblin pikers so that you can be monored for fiery hellhound, go ahead.
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P_P4E



Joined: 31 Aug 2004
Posts: 579

PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 11:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SAPenguin wrote:
...Except that only black is deep enough that you can reliably get a playable every pack. If you want to play a bunch of goblin pikers so that you can be monored for fiery hellhound, go ahead.


...this is obviously a comment from someone who doesnt play this format very often.
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SAPenguin



Joined: 04 Dec 2010
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

P_P4E wrote:
SAPenguin wrote:
...Except that only black is deep enough that you can reliably get a playable every pack. If you want to play a bunch of goblin pikers so that you can be monored for fiery hellhound, go ahead.


...this is obviously a comment from someone who doesnt play this format very often.


I have drafted m12 over 30 times, thanks. The comment comes from someone who does the majority of his drafting outside of magic-league, so I am drafting with people who don't maindeck lifelink, hideous visage, and wall of torches. In those drafts, there are fewer playables available, because nobody is taking shit cards over them. If there are 2 other red players at the table, mono-red will not be available. The same goes for pretty much any colour other than black, just because black has about 3 non-playable commons. Mono-x is only going to be available if there's one other person in it, and only if its not that person's dominant colour. Not only that, but fiery hellhound is hardly enough of an incentive to play mono. Guardian's pledge and drifting shade are both good enough to make mono good if you get multiples, if your guardian's pledge is pumping a bunch of auramancers that didn't get anything back, then its better to just play two colours so you have access to quality cards.
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AppleofEris



Joined: 20 Dec 2006
Posts: 553

PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright. Let's put together an 8-man swiss draft and find out. I'm free between 8am-5pm est and can maybe fit it in otherwise.
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MannyFresh



Joined: 29 May 2011
Posts: 13

PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I won a 4-3-2-2 queue with naturalize is my MD. I actually LOVE MD'ing naturalize b/c it hits quite a few things.

By pick 5 you should know what colors are open. However you guys are forgetting the "luck of the draw" factor. If I crack a doom blade then get 2 sorins thirst passed to me, im obviously going black. But if the guy 3 seats from me opened a grave titan, got passed a doom blade.....he is cutting black as well. You can't control things like that.

Also with 2 bombs in same color (Titan/fireball or mind control/titan) I am fine with guy next me being in my color b/c of one card. That means he cuts all of that color pack 2, but pack 3 im getting it.

It's a give and take relationship. Pack 1 get your main color, 2nd pack go for 2nd/3rd color(s) and pack 3 if you did it right you reap benefits. Many times I have had fireballs past to me 2nd/3rd pick in pack 3.

As far as quality of netdrafters go.....they are bad but not MD'ing lifelink/wall of torches bad lol. Netdraft is a good place for "testing" those combos out with certain cards.
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mortisimo



Joined: 26 Jun 2010
Posts: 9

PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are tons of 'bad' drafters on MTGO as well. I have read most of the replies and I see alot of hate Smile

Please keep in mind this post wasn't on 'drafting' in general, it was on the draft as it pertains to m12. Smile

I was writing with the assumption that some basic things were understood (like getting removal early, etc.).

I have friends that are very successful on MTGO winning 8-4s quite often, and even they will 'force' in m12. If you bounce colors too much you end up hurting yourself in the end.

Now if you take a card pack 1 and don't see anything the next 4-5 picks and get some solid cards in other colors - then of course you are going to switch. This doesn't happen very often though, and for the first article I was giving a basic strategy to help people Smile

I see a lot of tips in here for 'drafting' in general - but as I said, I was gearing this toward m12. Some of the tips are very good - some of them, well I am not a fan of Smile I planned on going further in depth with this and adding things future posts like 'when to jump out of a color' etc. Glad to see it at least got a few reads though, thanks all for pitching in.
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